Matt Bromley is one of the world best big wave surfers. He’s caught monster waves at Jaws in Hawaii, Mavericks in California, Nias in Indonesia and more off Irelands rugged coast alongside the world best, but it will be the session this weekend (Saturday 22 September 2018) at his home break within paddling distance from his bedroom window that will go down in history and memory as one of the highlights of his illustrious career…
TO BE SHARING IT WITH MANY OF THE OLD LEGENDS WHO’VE BEEN RIDING IT FOR DECADES WAS PRETTY INSANE.
AT 30-FOOT, IT’S HITTING AN OUTER LEDGE THAT DELIVERS BARRELS YOU CAN DRIVE TWO DOUBLE-DECKER BUSSES THROUGH.
NEXT THING I GOT WHIPPED INTO THIS THING. I REMEMBER LETTING GO AND LEANING OVER THE EDGE OF A STEEP MOUNTAIN SLOPE.
I THINK WHEN THE WAVES ARE THAT NUTS, THEN YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE ROPE AND GET PULLED IN.